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SOURCES
Fineman, Mia. "Faking It: Manipulated Photography Before Photoshop". Yale University Press, New Haven, 2012.
Johnson, Robert. "A Complete Treatise on the Art of Retouching Photographic Negatives and Clear Directions How to Finish & Colour Photographs". Marion & Co., London. 1898. Accessible online: https://tinyurl.com/49pdp983
Schriever, J. B. "Complete Self-Instructing Library of Practical Photography, Volume X: Negative Retouching, Etching and Modeling. Encyclopedic Index. Glossary." American School of Art and Photography, Pennsylvania, USA, 1909. Accessible online: https://tinyurl.com/s3v6w5jm
NOTES
1 French Illusionist Henri Robin, photographed by Eugene Thiebault, 1863.
2 Schriever p 239
3 Johnson p 1
4 Schriever p 198
5 Illustration of the Coronet Corset Co. "The Ladies Home Journal", October 1900. Wikimedia Commons https://tinyurl.com/dz7kn93m
6 "1902-1909, Plate 049" The Metropolitan Museum of Art https://tinyurl.com/e49uv449
7 "CORSET", Paris, 1905. Wikimedia Commons https://tinyurl.com/tttzv8yx
8 Detail from "The Crush", Charles Dana Gibson, 1901. https://tinyurl.com/44j8b5zx
9 "Picturesque America, Anywhere Along the Coast", Charles Dana Gibson, 1898 https://tinyurl.com/yen8yn6n
[10] From the personal collection of Orla Fitzpatrick, published initially on Jacolette: a gallery of Irish snapshot and vernacular photography, 18 February, 2020. Used with permission. https://tinyurl.com/dw5vjw45
11 Schriever p 50.
12 The quoted text is from Johnson (p. 8-9) but the images shown are from Schriever.
13 Schriever p 54
14 Schriever p 104
15 Schriever p 176
16 Schriever p 187 (top), 191 (bottom)
17 Schriever p 201
18 Schriever p 222
19 Karolina's full video on Edwardian waist alteration: https://tinyurl.com/cx3ne3zk
20 "Margrethe Kallevig født Irgens", 1889. Aust-Agder Museum https://tinyurl.com/3w7j6wrk. Alterations are conjecture
21 Uploaded by Pinterest user Shelley Peters. Alterations are conjecture
22 Uploaded by Pinterest user Jealous21. Alterations are conjecture
23 The first 2 images are unaccredited. The third shows Vaudeville star Aida Overton Walker
24 Advertisement from "The Woman's Home Companion", April 1901 https://tinyurl.com/34pjavav
25 Postcard of Camille Clifford, c. 1900 https://tinyurl.com/2hrbxwtb
26 A "Gibson Girl" portrait, Charles Dana Gibson c 1891 https://tinyurl.com/4pw8uder
27 "Mrs. Will Richardson". Photographed c 1907 by Joseph J Pennell in Junction City, Kansas. Pennell Photography Collection/Kansas Collection, Kenneth Spencer Research Library, University of Kansas https://tinyurl.com/arjtsa44
28 "The Bien Jolie Brassiere." Votes for Women, vol. V, no. 224, 1912, p 615. Nineteenth Century Collections Online https://tinyurl.com/hwjda57x
29 "Multiple Classified Advertisements." The Designer and the Woman's Magazine, vol. XIII, no. 5, 1901, p. 572. Nineteenth Century Collections Online https://tinyurl.com/n8rpm8e6
30 "Multiple Classified Advertisements." The Designer and the Woman's Magazine, vol. XIX, no. 5, 1904, p. 555. Nineteenth Century Collections Online https://tinyurl.com/ja4uxv44
31 Arthur Devis. "Mr and Mrs Atherton", c. 1743. Walker Art Gallery, accession no. WAG 1353. https://tinyurl.com/3v85azbz
32 Engraving of Joannes Heurnius. The Wellcome Collection, system no. b1167455. https://tinyurl.com/2yzzfnjr
33 This point is excellently discussed in James Welsh's video on the subject of Influencers Vs Facetune: https://tinyurl.com/yrp7ss52
34 “Godey’s”, Volume 125. November, 1892
35 "The Model" advertisement featured in East Texas State Normal College's 1920 Locust yearbook https://tinyurl.com/5bapd6n4
36 An advertisement for a women's rabbit skin coat and a green wool suit, available at Eaton's College Street. Toronto, Canada. 1935 https://tinyurl.com/yt4xfzjp
37 Advertisement for Sweetheart Soap, March 1950 https://tinyurl.com/3bekb7pz
38 Unknown, European. Portrait of a Lady Holding an Orange Blossom, mid-18th century. Art Gallery of Ontario, accession no. AGO162606-1200
39 Portrait of Anne Marie d'Orléans. C. 1680s https://tinyurl.com/4p7xaf98
40 Portrait of a Lady in a rose-colored dress, possibly part of a "Gallery of Beauties”. C. 1670s https://tinyurl.com/xfta7zu3
41 Trinity and the Four Evangelists. Armenian minuscript of Nahapet of Gamałiēl gospel. C. 1391 https://tinyurl.com/yxh9h4nx
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